FAQ's

If this general advice doesn't tell you what you need to know, why not give us a call on 01722 324395 or 0845 1307161

What makes white gold white?

In its raw state gold is yellow but it is possible to change the colour by adding different metals during the alloying process. To produce white gold alloys metals such as zinc and palladium may be added to pure gold. The finished article is then often rhodium plated to give a bright white finish. In time the rhodium plating can wear and the slightly yellowish white gold will begin to show. Articles can be re-plated but if a bright white finish is desired we would recommend considering platinum which will always have a bright white finish and is indeed harder wearing and more durable than gold.

Is it correct that 9ct gold is harder wearing than 18ct gold?

It is a popular myth that 9ct is harder than 18ct gold but after much scientific research this has been dispelled. Pure gold is 24 carat and 9ct must be at least 9 parts gold in 24, equivalent to 37.5% gold and the other 62.5% other metals such as copper, silver, palladium or zinc. 18ct must be at least 18 parts gold in 24, 75% gold and 25% other metals. These ‘recipes’ can be altered to affect the hardness of 9ct and 18ct gold. Generally 18ct gold alloys are both harder and more durable than their 9ct equivalent. 9ct gold alloys are often more brittle than 18ct alloys which tend to be more resilient. 18ct gold reacts better to the mechanical processes that the alloy is subjected to such as rolling, stretching, bending, hammering, etc. These processes tend to make 9ct alloys more brittle.

What is the difference between real, cultured and imitation pearls?

Real pearls are those found naturally occurring in oysters and certain other bivalves. A piece of grit or some foreign body has entered the organism and this triggers the process of covering the alien body with microscopic layers of nacre. Real pearls are rare and prices will be dramatically higher.

Cultured pearls are those produced after an oyster has a nucleus, usually a mother of pearl bead, artificially inserted. The first cultured pearl was produced in Japan in 1905. Oysters used in this process are farmed and are suspended in large tethered cages in the sea. The majority of pearls are produced in Japan, but China is also becoming a major production centre.

Cultured freshwater pearls are produced by freshwater mussels in much larger quantities. These can be produced in many different colours and shades and provide a less expensive source of pearls.

Imitation pearls are entirely manmade. A bead is dipped into a mixture based on crushed fish scales known as "essence d’orient". This coats a bead and produces an imitation pearl. Other lower quality imitations may be made from plastic or ceramics. These are used for costume jewellery and provide an inexpensive way of imitating cultured pearls.

What's the best way to clean my wedding ring?

It is best to polish your ring occasionally with a jewellery cleaning cloth. These are usually impregnated with a mild polish and will make the metal shine again. If the ring is badly scratched it may be worth bring it into the shop where it can be professionally polished and will then look as good as new.

Somebody has made me an offer for some old gold chains but the amount is far less than my recent valuation for insurance. Why is this?

The valuation for insurance details the cost to replace an item at current market rates, including VAT. If your gold chains had been well worn or showed signs of damage you may have only been offered a scrap metal price. This is simply calculated on the weight of metal which fluctuates according to the price of gold on the commodity markets. The scrap price may be the articles lowest value and its highest will be the valuation for insurance. In reality a true selling price for the article may well be somewhere in between and depend on prevailing market conditions and other factors such as condition.

What is the best way to sell an unwanted piece of jewellery?

Go to your jeweller and ask if they would like to make an offer to purchase the item. If you wish to accept then payment can often be made immediately. Alternatively you may wish to sell the item by private sale (although it is not always advisable to advertise jewellery for security reasons). The price obtainable may be higher although of course you have no guarantee of making a sale. It may also be possible to ask a shop whether they would be willing to sell a piece on your behalf on a commission basis.

I've just lost an earring. Is it possible for it to be replaced?

It may be possible to copy a single earring. We can match stones and will always be happy to provide a quotation for this kind of work. Of course sometimes a customer may feel that they would rather not go down this route but may still wish to make use of the earring. Depending on the article it may well be possible for us to produce designs for a conversion to another item of jewellery such as a pendant or brooch.

A friend has given me a beautiful loose opal. Is it possible to have it made into a pendant?

We are always happy to be given the opportunity to manufacture jewellery to our customer’s own specifications. We would be glad to talk to you about your needs and then to submit designs and quotation for the work.

My engagement ring has become too tight and I can't take it off. What should I do?

It is common for rings to become too tight. The size of our hands and fingers alters throughout the day and over the course of time. If you find difficulty removing the ring we would suggest that you come into the shop where our trained staff can usually remove the ring without damage to either you or the ring! In extreme circumstances, often due to an injury, it may be necessary to cut the ring off and again our trained staff can do this for you. The next logical step is usually to make the ring larger. This simply involves ascertaining your correct size and adding metal to the ring. After the ring has then been cleaned and polished it will look as good as new.

A friend had told me that a sapphire will be harder wearing than a ruby in an engagement ring. Is this true?

No, this is not true at all. Sapphire and ruby are both examples of the mineral Corundum and both have the same hardness index values. Of course it may be true that different ring designs may lend themselves towards harder wear than others. It is better to choose a practical design for an engagement ring which may be worn almost constantly for many years.

A friend has an ultrasonic cleaner and said that she could make my emerald and pearl bracelet look like new again. Will the cleaning agent affect the stones at all?

We would not recommend any cleaning solvents or solutions for use on pearls or emeralds. We would also strongly advise against the use of an ultrasonic cleaner on pearls and emeralds. A pearl is made up of thousands of microscopic layers. Ultrasonic waves can exploit these layers leading to damage. Emeralds are a form of the mineral Beryl and characteristically have many fissures or microscopic cracks within them. Again ultrasonic waves can exploit these leading to degradation and even cracking of the stone.

I have just had a burglary and my insurance company has asked for a valuation of my grandmother's ring. I have never had it valued so what can I do?

If the ring had never been valued we can provide you with a retrospective or “post loss” valuation based on your own description. We will gather as much information as possible and try to build up a picture of the article. We then assess its current market value based on this description given by you.

Some of my gold jewellery is marked 375 and some 750. Is there any difference in the quality of gold?

Yes, the 375 mark means that there are 375 parts per 1000 of pure gold in the alloy, or 37.5%. As pure gold is 24 carat, 37.5% of 24 is 9, so the item is made from 9 carat gold. The 750 mark equates to 75% pure gold or 18/24, and is 18 carat. So the carat is simply the percentage of pure gold expressed in 24ths. Common gold standards that may be seen are 375, 585, 625, 750 and 916.

I have a silver teapot that has been described as Sterling Silver. What does this mean?

Sterling silver is simply silver that is alloyed to the standard of 92.5% pure silver. So Sterling silver is the most common standard and is marked 925. There is another British standard known as Britannia silver. This is much less common and is 95.8% pure silver and will be marked 958.

How often should I have my antique carriage clock serviced?

To keep your clock working well it may be necessary to have the movement overhauled regularly. Over a period of time dust can get into the movement and will stick to the oiled parts. Eventually this causes the oil to become viscous and abrasive, creating wear that can affect timekeeping and which will eventually cause the clock to stop. A thorough overhaul will strip the clock, clean it, repair any wear, re-oil, reassemble and test. The time interval between overhauls depends on environmental factors such as proximity to heating sources and draughts. The time interval may be shortened to just a few years for a clock that is situated on a mantelpiece over an open fire.

I have recently moved house and my grandfather clock now only goes for five minutes before stopping. What could be wrong?

This is a common problem often encountered after disturbing pendulum clocks. When the pendulum swings you may hear an irregular “tick-TOCK, tick-TOCK”. The clock is “Out of Beat” and requires a small adjustment to achieve a regular “tick-tick-tick-tick” sound. This involves adjusting the way that the pendulum swings in order to allow an equal angle of movement when it swings to the left and to the right. This in turn allows an equal depth of meshing to occur between the teeth of the escapement mechanism and the escapement wheel. This adjustment requires patience and practice and you may find it necessary to seek the services of a clockmaker.

I just found my grandfather's old pocket watch. Is it possible to have it repaired?

We would be happy to advise on the repair of any old watch. It may be possible to overhaul a watch which involves repairing, cleaning, oiling and testing. Unfortunately many old watches are beyond economical repair so it’s best to bring it in and we can give you a quote which is free and carries no obligation.

I have just inherited a mercurial barometer. It's not in very good condition and doesn't seem to give a good pressure reading. What could be wrong?

Mercury barometers are quite fragile and it is often the case that over the years some of the mercury may have been spilt. It is possible to totally overhaul your barometer which includes cleaning and replacing the mercury as well as the glass tube if necessary. It’s best to bring the barometer in to the shop where we will be happy to provide a quotation.

I need to bring my mercurial barometer to the shop for a quotation for repair. What is the best way to transport it?

The barometer should never be laid on its side. It is best to gently tilt the barometer until it is at about 20° to the vertical. The mercury will then have filled the vacuum at the top of the tube making the tube less vulnerable to breakage by the mercury column itself during transit. If in any doubt, please telephone us and we will be happy to give specific advice.

I have smashed a thermometer and it seems that the mercury has turned my wedding ring a strange grey colour. How can I clean the ring?

Gold and mercury form an amalgam with one another. This has caused the discolouration and untreated it will cause damage. You should put the ring into a polythene bag and bring it to us where our specialists can remove the mercury.

What is a valuation for insurance?

A valuation for insurance provides the client with fully described schedule of an item or list of items, illustrated with photographs. Extensive research is entered into in order to give an accurate assessment of the replacement value of an article. Where possible this will be in terms of a brand new replacement value. In the case of an antique item or irreplaceable item, the cost to replace with a similar or equivalent item. The valuation can be used to list the item on a household or specialist insurance policy. It does not constitute an offer to purchase the goods.

How can I get my jewellery valued for insurance purposes?

We have a National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) Registered Valuer in the shop who can undertake this work. Each item will be examined, photographed and valued according to prevailing marker conditions. We can produce a high quality and detailed valuation schedule in order to ascertain the level of insurance cover that you should arrange.

I want to sell an item of jewellery to a friend but want to be certain that I'm asking a fair price for the item. Can you help decide what a fair selling price should be?

Yes we could offer a valuation service on the basis of a “Sale Between Parties”. This type of valuation maybe sought by an individual who wishes to sell an article of value privately and needs to know what a reasonable price is to ask for it. A private buyer may reasonably expect an article to have a lower price than its brand new equivalent so this type of valuation may be carried out to assist a private seller in deciding on a fair selling price. We make a detailed examination of the article and produce a detailed schedule with a value. The value will be lower than an insurance valuation as the goods are second hand and the seller will not be subject to many of the conditions which may be associated with the running of a bona fide business, such as liability to VAT, offering a guarantee, provision of insurance and the cost of other overheads.