2007 catalogue now available

 

Advice Section
1. What makes white gold white?
2. Is it correct that 9ct gold is harder wearing than 18ct gold?
3. What is the difference between real, cultured and imitation pearls?
4. What’s the best way to clean my wedding ring?
5. How can I get my jewellery valued for insurance purposes?
6. Somebody has made me an offer for some old gold chains but the amount is far less than my recent valuation for insurance. Why is this?
7. What is the best way to sell an unwanted piece of jewellery?
8. I’ve just lost an earring. Is it possible for it to be replaced?
9. A friend has given me a beautiful loose opal. Is it possible to have it made into a pendant?
10. My engagement ring has become too tight and I can’t take it off. What should I do?
11. A friend had told me that a sapphire will be harder wearing than a ruby in an engagement ring. Is this true?
12. A friend has an ultrasonic cleaner and said that she could make my emerald and pearl bracelet look like new again. Will the cleaning agent affect the stones at all?
13. I have just had a burglary and my insurance company has asked for a valuation of my grandmother’s ring. I have never had it valued so what can I do?
14. Some of my gold jewellery is marked 375 and some 750. Is there any difference in the quality of gold?
15. I have a silver teapot that has been described as Sterling Silver. What does this mean?
16. How often should I have my antique carriage clock serviced?
17. I have recently moved house and my grandfather clock now only goes for five minutes before stopping. What could be wrong?
18. I just found my grandfather’s old pocket watch. Is it possible to have it repaired?
19. I have just inherited a mercurial barometer. It’s not in very good condition and doesn’t seem to give a good pressure reading. What could be wrong?
20. I need to bring my mercurial barometer to the shop for a quotation for repair. What is the best way to transport it?
21. I have smashed a thermometer and it seems that the mercury has turned my wedding ring a strange grey colour. How can I clean the ring?

 

1. What makes white gold white?

In its raw state gold is yellow but it is possible to change the colour by adding different metals during the alloying process. To produce white gold alloys metals such as zinc and palladium may be added to pure gold. The finished article is then often rhodium plated to give a bright white finish. In time the rhodium plating can wear and the slightly yellowish white gold will begin to show. Articles can be re-plated but if a bright white finish is desired we would recommend considering platinum which will always have a bright white finish and is indeed harder wearing and more durable than gold.

top of page

 

2. Is it correct that 9ct gold is harder wearing than 18ct gold?

It is a popular myth that 9ct is harder than 18ct gold but after much scientific research this has been dispelled. Pure gold is 24 carat and 9ct must be at least 9 parts gold in 24, equivalent to 37.5% gold and the other 62.5% other metals such as copper, silver, palladium or zinc. 18ct must be at least 18 parts gold in 24, 75% gold and 25% other metals. These ‘recipes’ can be altered to affect the hardness of 9ct and 18ct gold. Generally 18ct gold alloys are both harder and more durable than their 9ct equivalent. 9ct gold alloys are often more brittle than 18ct alloys which tend to be more resilient. 18ct gold reacts better to the mechanical processes that the alloy is subjected to such as rolling, stretching, bending, hammering, etc. These processes tend to make 9ct alloys more brittle.

top of page

 

3. What is the difference between real, cultured and imitation pearls?

Real pearls are those found naturally occurring in oysters and certain other bivalves. A piece of grit or some foreign body has entered the organism and this triggers the process of covering the alien body with microscopic layers of nacre. Real pearls are rare and prices will be dramatically higher.

Cultured pearls are those produced after an oyster has a nucleus, usually a mother of pearl bead, artificially inserted. The first cultured pearl was produced in Japan in 1905. Oysters used in this process are farmed and are suspended in large tethered cages in the sea. The majority of pearls are produced in Japan, but China is also becoming a major production centre.

Cultured freshwater pearls are produced by freshwater mussels in much larger quantities. These can be produced in many different colours and shades and provide a less expensive source of pearls.

Imitation pearls are entirely manmade. A bead is dipped into a mixture based on crushed fish scales known as "essence d’orient". This coats a bead and produces an imitation pearl. Other lower quality imitations may be made from plastic or ceramics. These are used for costume jewellery and provide an inexpensive way of imitating cultured pearls.

top of page

 

4. What’s the best way to clean my wedding ring?

It is best to polish your ring occasionally with a jewellery cleaning cloth. These are usually impregnated with a mild polish and will make the metal shine again. If the ring is badly scratched it may be worth bring it into the shop where it can be professionally polished and will then look as good as new.

top of page

 

5. How can I get my jewellery valued for insurance purposes?

We have several National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) Registered Valuers in the shop who can undertake this work. Each item will be examined, photographed and valued according to prevailing marker conditions. We can produce a high quality and detailed valuation schedule in order to ascertain the level of insurance cover that you should arrange.

top of page

 

6. Somebody has made me an offer for some old gold chains but the amount is far less than my recent valuation for insurance. Why is this?

The valuation for insurance details the cost to replace an item at current market rates, including VAT. If your gold chains had been well worn or showed signs of damage you may have only been offered a scrap metal price. This is simply calculated on the weight of metal which fluctuates according to the price of gold on the commodity markets. The scrap price may be the articles lowest value and its highest will be the valuation for insurance. In reality a true selling price for the article may well be somewhere in between and depend on prevailing market conditions and other factors such as condition.

top of page

 

7. What is the best way to sell an unwanted piece of jewellery?

Go to your jeweller and ask if they would like to make an offer for the item. If you wish to accept then payment can often be made immediately. Alternatively you may wish to sell the item by private sale (although it is not always advisable to advertise jewellery for security reasons). The price obtainable may be higher although of course you have no guarantee of making a sale. It may also be possible to ask a shop whether they would be willing to sell a piece on your behalf on a commission basis.

top of page

 

8. I’ve just lost an earring. Is it possible for it to be replaced?

It may be possible to copy a single earring. We can match stones and will always be happy to provide a quotation for this kind of work. Of course sometimes a customer may feel that they would rather not go down this route but may still wish to make use of the earring. Depending on the article it may well be possible for us to produce designs for a conversion to another item of jewellery such as a pendant or brooch.

top of page

 

9. A friend has given me a beautiful loose opal. Is it possible to have it made into a pendant?

We are always happy to be given the opportunity to manufacture jewellery to our customer’s own specifications. We would be glad to talk to you about your needs and then to submit designs and quotation for the work.

top of page

 

10. My engagement ring has become too tight and I can’t take it off. What should I do?

It is common for rings to become too tight. The size of our hands and fingers alters throughout the day and over the course of time. If you find difficulty removing the ring we would suggest that you come into the shop where our trained staff can usually remove the ring without damage to either you or the ring! In extreme circumstances, often due to an injury, it may be necessary to cut the ring off and again our trained staff can do this for you. The next logical step is usually to make the ring larger. This simply involves ascertaining your correct size and adding metal to the ring. After the ring has then been cleaned and polished it will look as good as new.

top of page

 

11. A friend had told me that a sapphire will be harder wearing than a ruby in an engagement ring. Is this true?

No, this is not true at all. Sapphire and ruby are both examples of the mineral Corundum and both have the same hardness index values. Of course it may be true that different ring designs may lend themselves towards harder wear than others. It is better to choose a practical design for an engagement ring which may be worn almost constantly for many years.

top of page

 

12. A friend has an ultrasonic cleaner and said that she could make my emerald and pearl bracelet look like new again. Will the cleaning agent affect the stones at all?

We would not recommend any cleaning solvents or solutions for use on pearls or emeralds. We would also strongly advise against the use of an ultrasonic cleaner on pearls and emeralds. A pearl is made up of thousands of microscopic layers. Ultrasonic waves can exploit these layers leading to damage. Emeralds are a form of the mineral Beryl and characteristically have many fissures or microscopic cracks within them. Again ultrasonic waves can exploit these leading to degradation and even cracking of the stone.

top of page

 

13. I have just had a burglary and my insurance company has asked for a valuation of my grandmother’s ring. I have never had it valued so what can I do?

If the ring had never been valued we can provide you with a retrospective or “post loss” valuation based on your own description. We will gather as much information as possible and try to build up a picture of the article. We then assess its current market value based on this description given by you.

top of page

 

14. Some of my gold jewellery is marked 375 and some 750. Is there any difference in the quality of gold?

Yes, the 375 mark means that there are 375 parts per 1000 of pure gold in the alloy, or 37.5%. As pure gold is 24 carat, 37.5% of 24 is 9, so the item is made from 9 carat gold. The 750 mark equates to 75% pure gold or 18/24, and is 18 carat. So the carat is simply the percentage of pure gold expressed in 24ths. Common gold standards that may be seen are 375, 585, 625, 750 and 916.

top of page

 

15. I have a silver teapot that has been described as Sterling Silver. What does this mean?

Sterling silver is simply silver that is alloyed to the standard of 92.5% pure silver. So Sterling silver is the most common standard and is marked 925. There is another British standard known as Britannia silver. This is much less common and is 95.8% pure silver and will be marked 958.

top of page

 

16. How often should I have my antique carriage clock serviced?

To keep your clock working well it may be necessary to have the movement overhauled regularly. Over a period of time dust can get into the movement and will stick to the oiled parts. Eventually this causes the oil to become viscous and abrasive, creating wear that can affect timekeeping and which will eventually cause the clock to stop. A thorough overhaul will strip the clock, clean it, repair any wear, re-oil, reassemble and test. The time interval between overhauls depends on environmental factors such as proximity to heating sources and draughts. The time interval may be shortened to just a few years for a clock that is situated on a mantelpiece over an open fire.

top of page

 

17. I have recently moved house and my grandfather clock now only goes for five minutes before stopping. What could be wrong?

This is a common problem often encountered after disturbing pendulum clocks. When the pendulum swings you may hear an irregular “tick-TOCK, tick-TOCK”. The clock is “Out of Beat” and requires a small adjustment to achieve a regular “tick-tick-tick-tick” sound. This involves adjusting the way that the pendulum swings in order to allow an equal angle of movement when it swings to the left and to the right. This in turn allows an equal depth of meshing to occur between the teeth of the escapement mechanism and the escapement wheel. This adjustment requires patience and practice and you may find it necessary to seek the services of a clockmaker.

top of page

 

18. I just found my grandfather’s old pocket watch. Is it possible to have it repaired?

We would be happy to advise on the repair of any old watch. It may be possible to overhaul a watch which involves repairing, cleaning, oiling and testing. Unfortunately many old watches are beyond economical repair so it’s best to bring it in and we can give you a quote which is free and carries no obligation.

top of page

 

19. I have just inherited a mercurial barometer. It’s not in very good condition and doesn’t seem to give a good pressure reading. What could be wrong?

Mercury barometers are quite fragile and it is often the case that over the years some of the mercury may have been spilt. It is possible to totally overhaul your barometer which includes cleaning and replacing the mercury as well as the glass tube if necessary. It’s best to bring the barometer in to the shop where we will be happy to provide a quotation.

top of page

 

20. I need to bring my mercurial barometer to the shop for a quotation for repair. What is the best way to transport it?

The barometer should never be laid on its side. It is best to gently tilt the barometer until it is at about 20° to the vertical. The mercury will then have filled the vacuum at the top of the tube making the tube less vulnerable to breakage by the mercury column itself during transit. If in any doubt, please telephone us and we will be happy to give specific advice.

top of page

 

21. I have smashed a thermometer and it seems that the mercury has turned my wedding ring a strange grey colour. How can I clean the ring?

Gold and mercury form an amalgam with one another. This has caused the discolouration and untreated it will cause damage. You should put the ring into a polythene bag and bring it to us where our specialists can remove the mercury.

top of page